Traditional Roujiamo from Xi’an and Tongguan

肉夹馍 – Iconic Sandwich of Shaanxi

With its crispy mo flatbread, pork slowly braised in an aromatic lǔ sauce, and ancient spices, roujiamo is one of the most emblematic dishes of northwestern China. Often presented as one of the world’s oldest “sandwiches,” it embodies popular cuisine, imperial history, and Chinese street-food culture all at once.

Names and Designations of Roujiamo

Roujiamo is known by several names, reflecting its regional, cultural, and linguistic diversity.

肉夹馍 (Ròujiāmó) — Standard designation

Literally means “meat inserted into bread.” This is the modern, official name used throughout China. The reversed word order (meat + bread) is a linguistic feature characteristic of Shaanxi.

腊汁肉夹馍 (Làzhī ròujiāmó) — Traditional pork version

Refers to the canonical Xi’an version: pork slowly braised in a dark, richly spiced sauce (làzhī), then stuffed into mo bread.

清真肉夹馍 (Qīngzhēn ròujiāmó) — Halal version

Prepared with beef or lamb in Hui Muslim neighborhoods. Seasoning often emphasizes cumin, coriander, and chili.

Regional names

• Xi’an roujiamo (西安肉夹馍): finely chopped meat, dense bread

• Tongguan roujiamo (潼关肉夹馍): very flaky and crispy bread, meat cut into chunks

In everyday Shaanxi speech, people often simply say jiāmó (夹馍) when the filling is obvious.

Origins and Historical Context

Roujiamo was born from the meeting of two very ancient traditions:

• Braised meat, documented as early as the Zhou dynasty, well suited to soldiers and travelers due to its high energy value and keeping quality.

• Mo flatbread, a wheat bread that appeared during the Qin dynasty, likely influenced by Central Asia.

Xi’an (ancient Chang’an), a major crossroads of the Silk Road, played a central role in spreading this combination. The modern form of roujiamo stabilized between the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming an essential street food.

Chinese proverb: 民以食为天
“The people regard food as heaven.”

Main Regional Variants

Shaanxi (historical heartland)

• Xi’an: very finely shredded meat, melting texture, well-bound sauce

• Tongguan: flaky, crispy bread, chunkier meat, rustic character

• Yan’an: drier, thicker bread, hearty peasant cuisine

Halal variants

• Beef or lamb, cumin, coriander, chili

• Found in Xi’an, Lanzhou, Yinchuan

Adaptations outside Shaanxi

These versions use the name roujiamo without claiming Shaanxi authenticity, but they contribute to its nationwide spread.

Dish Profile

• Type: Street food / hot sandwich

• Servings: 4–6

• Level: Advanced

• Total time: 20 min + 3–4 h cooking + 12 h resting

Traditional Xi’an / Tongguan Roujiamo Recipe

Ingredients

Meat

• Pork shoulder or belly (with fat and skin): 900 g

• Fresh ginger: 30 g

• Garlic: 4 cloves

Aromatic base

• Fermented broad bean paste (fènsiǎnjiàng): 1 tbsp

Spices (wǔxiāng, whole)

• Star anise: 2

• Cassia cinnamon: 1 stick

• Cloves: 3

• Fennel seeds: 1 tsp

• Sichuan peppercorns: 1 tsp

• Bay leaves: 2–3

Liquids

• Light soy sauce: 2 tbsp

• Dark soy sauce: 2 tbsp

• Shaoxing wine: 3 tbsp

• Brown sugar: 2 tbsp

• Water: 800–1000 ml

• Salt: to taste

Preparation

1. Blanching

Blanch the pork for 3 minutes, rinse under cold water, and pat dry thoroughly.

2. Spiced caramel

Melt the sugar dry until it reaches an amber caramel. Add ginger, garlic, spices, and fermented paste. Add the pork and coat well.

3. Braising

Deglaze with the wine and soy sauces. Cover with water, bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 3½–4 hours, until the meat shreds easily.

4. Finishing, according to the variant

• Xi’an: shred very finely and mix with a little sauce

• Tongguan: cut into 1 cm chunks and lightly spoon over sauce

Let rest for 12 hours in the sauce in the refrigerator.

Assembly

Split a warm mo bread without cutting through the bottom. Fill with 100–120 g of meat, drizzle with a little hot broth, and serve immediately.

Authenticity Tips

• Never remove the fat: it moistens the bread and carries the aromas

• The lǔ sauce keeps well and improves with time

• Roujiamo is eaten on its own, by hand, without side dishes

Nutritional Values (per piece)

Approximately 450 kcal

Glossary

• Mo (馍): wheat flatbread

• Lǔ zhī (卤汁): braising sauce

• Wǔxiāng (五香): traditional five-spice blend