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Traditional Recipe of Japanese Soy Sauce (Shōyu / 醤油)

Traditional Recipe of Japanese Soy Sauce (Shōyu / 醤油)

Other names: Shōyu (醤油), Koikuchi (濃口), Usukuchi (薄口), Tamari (溜り), Saishikomi (再仕込み), Shiro (白醤油)

Discover the traditional recipe for Japanese Soy Sauce (Shōyu / 醤油) — an emblematic condiment of Japan that combines authenticity, the nobility of natural ingredients, and the aromatic depth of long fermentation.

Anecdote
“Mukashi, Edo no tabemono ni wa, shōyu ga fukamaru aji o ataeta” — Long ago, in Edo, it was said that soy sauce enriched every dish with deep and comforting flavors.

Legend
It was said that an 18th-century samurai, renowned for his wisdom and discipline, would only eat dishes seasoned with traditionally fermented Shōyu — a symbol of culinary refinement and self-mastery.


Geographic Origin and Status

  • Country: Japan / 日本

  • Regions: Main production areas: Chiba, Hyōgo, Shizuoka, and Kyōto.
    These regions benefit from a temperate climate and humidity favorable to the natural fermentation of koji (麹). They host some of Japan’s oldest artisanal soy sauce houses, often family-run, where production methods have been passed down for centuries.

  • Inventor of the recipe:
    The recipe dates back to the Nara period (710–794), derived from the Chinese fermented paste jiang (醬). Buddhist monks adapted the process in Japan, introducing a blend of soybeans and wheat to create tamari shōyu, the ancestor of modern soy sauces.

  • Codified recipe: Yes
    Official specifications:

    • Ingredients: Yellow soybeans (daizu / 大豆), wheat (komugi / 小麦), water (mizu / 水), salt (shio / 塩).

    • Process:

      1. Koji fermentation (麹): Soybeans and wheat are inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae, which generates enzymes responsible for umami flavor.

      2. Mixing with salt and water: This forms the moromi (諸味) mash.

      3. Slow fermentation: Moromi ferments in wooden or stainless-steel vats for several months to over a year.

      4. Pressing and filtration: The liquid is extracted, clarified, and pasteurized to stabilize flavors and stop fermentation.

    • Fermentation:
      Takes place in ventilated cedar or steel vats for 6 to 18 months, developing the sauce’s amber color and complex aroma.

  • Certification Body:
    Japan Soy Sauce Association (JSCA), enforcing JAS (Japanese Agricultural Standard) criteria for ingredient quality, fermentation time, and traceability.

  • Classification under JAS:

    • Koikuchi (濃口醤油): Most common, balanced, and versatile.

    • Usukuchi (淡口醤油): Lighter and saltier, typical of Kansai cuisine.

    • Tamari (溜り醤油): Low in wheat, rich and dark, often used for sashimi.

    • Saishikomi (再仕込み): Double-fermented, dense and mellow.

    • Shiro (白醤油): Very light, delicate flavor, preserves ingredient color.

  • Chinese classification equivalents:

    • Light soy sauce (生抽 shēngchōu): Salty and clear for seasoning.

    • Dark soy sauce (老抽 lǎochōu): Thick, sweet, for braising and color.

    • Regional variations: e.g., Taiwanese double-fermented soy sauce (酱油膏), dense and sweet.

  • Evolution of the recipe:
    From early subterranean fermentations to codified industrial production, preserving traditional methods. Innovations include stainless-steel vats, controlled humidity, and pasteurization — yet maintaining koji-based natural fermentation as the foundation of flavor.


Historical Overview

  • Origin: Derived from Chinese jiangyou (酱油) between the 7th–9th centuries.

  • Nara period (710–794): Used in noble and ceremonial dishes.

  • Edo period (1603–1868): Artisanal industrialization and emergence of Koikuchi and Usukuchi.

  • 19th century: Spread to all social classes.

  • 20th century: Codification and standardization under JSCA.

  • Techniques: 6–12 month fermentations; cedar vats; strict hygiene.

  • Regional styles: Kansai (Usukuchi), Kantō (Koikuchi).

  • Culinary adoption: Integral to kaiseki cuisine and modern gastronomy.

  • Exported worldwide from the mid-20th century.


Iconic Chefs and Contributions

  • Masaharu Morimoto (森本正治): Use of Shōyu in sashimi and fusion sauces.

  • Yoshihiro Murata (村田吉弘): Integration in traditional kaiseki broths and glazes.

  • Seiji Yamamoto (山本征治): Elevation of Koikuchi Shōyu in haute cuisine.

  • Nobu Matsuhisa (松久信幸): Adaptation of Shōyu for global gastronomy.

  • Kunio Tokuoka (徳岡邦夫): Preservation of artisanal fermentation.

  • Hiroyuki Sakai (坂井宏行): Harmonization in hot sauces and roasts.


Recipe Description

  • Appearance: Dark brown liquid, clear to slightly opaque.

  • Texture: Fluid with light natural viscosity.

  • Aromas: Deep umami, roasted wheat, subtle fermented soy notes.

  • Culinary use: As a raw or cooked condiment; for soups, marinades, and sauces.

  • Utensils: Wooden or stainless vats, fermentation tanks, traditional press, thermometers, and sterilized containers.


Ingredients

  • Yellow soybeans (daizu / 大豆): 1 kg

  • Wheat (komugi / 小麦): 1 kg

  • Salt: 300 g

  • Water: 2 L

  • Variants: Tamari (more soy), Shiro (more wheat).


Technical Preparation

  • Preparation time: 60 minutes (koji inoculation), plus 15 minutes for moromi mixing.

  • Fermentation: 6–12 months (Koikuchi), up to 18 months (Saishikomi).

  • Steps:

    1. Soak and steam soybeans (120 °C, 90 min).

    2. Roast and grind wheat (180 °C until caramelized).

    3. Inoculate with Aspergillus oryzae; incubate at 30 °C, 95 % humidity for 48 h.

    4. Mix with brine to form moromi (16–18 % salt).

    5. Ferment in cedar vats, stirring weekly.

    6. Press, filter, and pasteurize (80 °C, 30 min).

  • Safety standards: HACCP and ISO 22000 compliance; temperature and humidity control; sterile storage.


Regional Variants

  • Koikuchi (濃口): Balanced umami, Kanto region.

  • Usukuchi (薄口): Lighter, saltier, Kansai region.

  • Tamari (溜り): Thicker, rich, miso byproduct.

  • Shiro (白醤油): Pale and sweet.

  • Saishikomi (再仕込み): Double fermentation, rich aroma.


Tips and Advice

  • Stir the moromi regularly for uniform fermentation.

  • Do not exceed 80 °C during pasteurization.

  • Avoid unwanted mold contamination.

  • Chef’s tip: Taste the moromi periodically to adjust umami intensity.


Culinary Glossary – Soy Sauce / 醤油

  • Koji (麹): Aspergillus oryzae culture used to ferment soybeans and wheat.

  • Moromi (諸味): Fermenting mash of soy, wheat, salt, and water.

  • Tamari (溜り): Thick soy sauce, low in wheat, strong umami.

  • Shiro (白醤油): Pale soy sauce, wheat-dominant, delicate flavor.

  • Saishikomi (再仕込み): Double fermentation for deep umami.

  • Pasteurization (加熱殺菌): Controlled heating for microbial safety.

  • Umami (旨味): Fifth basic taste, from amino acids and nucleotides.

  • Koikuchi (濃口): Dark soy sauce, most common in Japan.

  • Usukuchi (薄口): Light soy sauce, saltier, typical of Kansai.

  • Fermentation vat (発酵槽): Wooden or stainless container for long fermentation.

  • Pressing (搾り): Extraction of the liquid after fermentation.

  • Roasting (焙煎): Light cooking of wheat to develop malted aroma.

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